01
30/70
Hemp to cotton, by composition
Hemp fibre comes from the bast — the layer just under the bark of the stalk — rather than from a seed head. Bast fibres are long, which is why hemp has historically been used for rope and sailcloth before it was used for clothing.
That length is also what makes it stiff on its own. Blending it with cotton at roughly thirty to seventy gives a cloth that holds the structure hemp brings while starting soft enough to wear from the first day rather than the tenth.
The practical consequence is how it ages: the weave relaxes where you move and holds where you do not, so the garment ends up shaped by its wearer rather than by the cut alone.
In short Soft from the first wear, and it gets better with time.

